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Celadon tokkuri, ochoko, and a bowl of rice by a rain-streaked window

米 · 麹 · 水

THREE essential elementsONE drop of sakebrings the heritage and flavors of Japanese culture to the world.

The three words

Kome, Koji, Mizu - Essential elements of sake brewing

米

Kome · Rice

Sake begins as grain. Yamada Nishiki, Gohyakumangoku, Omachi — each rice holds a different sweetness, a different spine. Polish it, and you decide how loudly the fruit will speak.

麹

Koji · Koji mold

Koji is Aspergillus oryzae, a living mold — not yeast. Spread over steamed rice, it unlocks starch into sugar. Without koji there is no sake; yeast (kobo) only arrives after this quiet work is done.

水

Mizu · Water

Most of the bottle is water. Soft mountain water from Niigata or Hyogo shapes a sake as surely as the rice. KOKOMII is named for these three — kome, koji, mizu — and for the glasses they reach, from Hong Kong outward.

The cellar

Ten houses — seventy-nine bottles at original list prices.

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Brands

Ten houses — Juyondai through Ohmine, with Japanese names beside the glass.

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Sake 101

Polishing ratios, grades, and how to pour a quiet glass.

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Pairings

What to drink with hotpot, sashimi, roast chicken, and mango pudding.

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